In my latest trip to Paris, I chose to stay in Paris’ 12th Arrondissement, a district far removed from the typical Parisian experience. Nestled on the right bank of the River Seine, this southeastern part of the city is a treasure trove of unconventional Paris. Here, amidst a blend of residential areas, street art and green spaces, life unfolds at a more relaxed pace, distinct from the bustling tourist hubs of Paris.
This district is a harmonious blend of modern and traditional Parisian architecture, reflecting its rich history and dynamic contemporary development. From the Bois de Vincennes, a sprawling park with a former royal residence (Château de Vincennes) at the district’s eastern edge, to the Bercy Area, once a major wine market, now transformed into a modern business district housing the Cinematheque Française and the Fairground Museum (Musée des Arts Forains) among other attractions, the 12th Arrondissement reveals unexpected sights and sounds, epitomizing the essence of Paris off the beaten path.
Embarking on my quest into the soul of offbeat Paris, I aimed to uncover the hidden gems of this often-overlooked area. In this article, I invite you to join me in exploring the unconventional, the offbeat, and the mesmerizingly hidden facets of Paris – an adventure that could reshape your understanding of this iconic city.
Street Art in Paris’ 12th Arrondissement
Like every offbeat exploration of mine, this one also starts with urban art that tells stories untold in any guidebook.
Le M.U.R. Bastille
In the part of the 12th district closer to the city center lies Le M.U.R. Bastille, a key segment of the Le M.U.R. urban art project. Launched in 2003 in the 11th Arrondissement, specifically on Rue Oberkampf, Le M.U.R. (standing for Modulable, Urbain, et Réactif) offers a legal and prominent space for street artists from both local and international backgrounds to showcase their talent. There are several public walls across Paris that are integral to this urban art initiative, with several more spread throughout France. These walls transform every three weeks, serving as a stage for a new artist and continuously injecting their areas with fresh artworks.
One such wall, located in the 12th Arrondissement on Rue de la Roquette (known as Le M.U.R. Bastille) sits above an eyewear shop where limited edition prints of the artists’ works are available for purchase.
During my visit, this wall had been freshly painted by the French artist Veks Van Hillik, known for his dreamlike and surreal style. Hillik’s art is a delicate blend of innocence and darkness, often featuring fantastical elements that invite viewers into a world of myth and mystery.
A Mural by Julien Colombier
Another mural in this part of Paris’ 12th Arrondissement was painted in 2022 by Julien Colombier. This work, part of the inaugural season of the Retina artistic residency, was curated by Arthur Bessaud and held under the patronage of the 15-20 Hospital. Julien Colombier draws his creative inspiration from a rich tapestry of influences, including graffiti culture, Japanese Art, and the works of Matisse and Keith Haring.
Colombier’s mural is a mesmerizing gateway into a dreamlike world. His scenes are enchanting yet somewhat unsettling, often portraying lush, tropical landscapes that seem to transcend reality. The artist skillfully employs geometric and botanical patterns, creating hypnotic environments that envelop the viewer.
The plants depicted in Julien Colombier’s work grow with a wild, untamed vigor, resembling a dense jungle or a rainforest -an inexorable growth resisting any attempts at domestication, symbolizing fragments of uncontrollable freedom.
- Visit also: “Loading: Street Art in the Digital Age” the immersive show at Grand Palais Immersif (Bastille area) on view until July 2024.
Urban Art at the Gare de Lyon
In October 2016, the artist Brusk from the renowned collective Da Mental Vaporz, along with street artist Le CyKlop, made their mark inside Paris Gare de Lyon. This was made possible thanks to the curatorial efforts of Quai36, an association dedicated to revamping many Parisian stations.
Unfortunately, the interventions on urban furniture by Le CyKlop are no longer visible, but the mural painted by Brusk still shines at the entrance of Hall 1.
This mural is Brusk’s tribute to the 1980s: incorporating elements like audio cassettes, walkmans, and cartoon characters, Brusk captures a decade of popular culture. Across nearly 150 square meters, the mural crystallizes the childhood memories of an entire generation, immersing viewers in a nostalgic journey through time.
Invader’s Mosaic at the Gare de Lyon
Next to the Gare de Lyon, you’ll find one of the many mosaics by Parisian artist Invader, a piece specifically designed to pay tribute to the iconic train station at the other side of the square. While I personally don’t use the Flashinvaders app, which allows enthusiasts to ‘flash’ Invader’s street mosaics and earn points for each unique find, along with accessing details like the catalog number, creation date, and the name of each piece, a participant of my Paris urban walks did.
He shared that these site-specific Invaders, usually larger and more intricate, not only yield higher scores in the app but also deliver a unique message -and the message for this particular Invader at the Gare de Lyon fittingly advises, “Don’t miss your train.“
A Mural by Cinta Vidal
On the opposite side of Paris’ 12th Arrondissement, a breathtaking mural by Spanish artist Cinta Vidal adorns the walls of Jules Verne College. Titled “Vicinity,” the mural draws inspiration from the surrounding neighborhood. It beautifully encapsulates the collective nature of urban living, where connections are forged through architecture and vegetation.
This piece also reflects the outcomes of a series of workshops conducted with the high school students, and inspired by Cinta Vidal’s unique ‘upside down‘ construction approach.
Yet one more Space Invader
Just a stone’s throw away from Cinta Vidal’s mural, we came across a large mosaic by Invader. Consulting Bart’s FlashInvaders app, we learned that this piece is the 1174th Space Invader installation in the series, first appearing in 2015.
It’s quite a catch for players, offering 100 points, and when you successfully ‘flash’ it, the message “That’s all folks!” pops up, adding a playful touch to the discovery.
Paris Street Art Map
Offbeat Places in Paris’ 12th Arrondissement
Beyond the captivating urban art, Paris’ 12th Arrondissement held other treasures for me to explore. Offering a delightful escape into the lesser-known, not-touristy Paris, this district unfolds its charm beyond the mainstream attractions, presenting an array of experiences that captivate the soul of the city’s authentic character.
Markets in Paris: Aligre Market
At the heart of this arrondissement, the Marché D’Aligre stands as a vibrant emblem of local life. Open every day except Monday, this multicultural and picturesque market, where you can find products from Africa, India, or Asia, is also one of the most affordable in the city.
Towering the market square, there’s yet another site-specific mosaic by Invader, paying homage to this market cherished by locals. It was installed in 2013, and the message appearing on the screen when you flash this specific Space Invader is “Fruits of the moon!“
Surrounded by quaint cafés, this bustling market is a microcosm of global cultures, offering an eclectic mix of goods from around the world.
There’s an open-air food market with fruit and vegetable vendors, stretching along Rue d’Aligre and part of the square; a covered market, the Beauveau hall built in 1779, home to fishmongers, cheese sellers, and various delicatessens offering specialties; and a small flea market that adds to its allure, making it a perfect spot for those seeking to experience the genuine spirit of Parisian daily life.
La Promenade Plantée (or Coulée verte)
Still at this side of the 12th Arrondissement, the Promenade Plantée, Paris’ own ‘park in the sky’, invites you on an elevated journey through the city’s green canopy. This pioneering urban park, predating New York’s famous High Line by 16 years, stretches nearly 5 km across the 12th Arrondissement.
Following the route of the retired Ligne de Vincennes railway track, it offers a unique vantage point from ten metres above ground. As you wander along this leafy corridor, you’ll catch glimpses into the private worlds of Parisians through their apartment windows, and in the summertime, the Jardin de Reuilly beneath buzzes with picnickers and sunbathers, while offering a serene retreat for solitary walkers in the fall.
Paris’ Best Instagrammable Spot: Rue Cremieux
Rue Crémieux is a charming and colorful pedestrian street located in the 12th arrondissement of Paris, well-known among local Instagrammers who flock here for the perfect shot against the colorful backdrop.
Painted in various pastel shades, its vibrant and picturesque houses make it stand out from the typical Haussmannian architecture of Paris. The street is lined with small gardens, plants, and flowers, creating a serene and inviting atmosphere.
To be completely candid, while I enjoyed snapping a few pics for the ‘gram on Rue Crémieux, I consciously chose to exclude it from my Paris urban walks, and refrained from bringing tour participants here. Despite not being a hot spot on the typical tourist map, it’s certainly a hit with locals. During the brief ten minutes I spent there, I witnessed three different content creators conducting photoshoots holding products against the scenic pastel houses. Given its rising popularity in local circles, I felt it strayed a bit from the off-the-beaten-path ethos of my urban walks.
Just Across The Seine
One more characteristic of Paris’ 12th Arrondissement that makes it the perfect neighborhood to stay in Paris is that it’s close not only to the city center, but also to more off-the-beaten-path spots that I wanted to check out during my week in Paris.
Just across the River Seine lie the 5th and 13th Arrondissements, each with its distinct character. The 5th Arrondissement, known as the Latin Quarter, is steeped in history, while the 13th Arrondissement boasts the most impressive collection of large-scale murals in Paris, and arguably, in Europe.
While I’ve previously published (and updated after this recent trip!) a guide to the XXL murals in Paris’ 13th Arrondissement, in this article, I want to highlight a personal favorite of mine from the Latin Quarter, and indeed, one of my top spots in the entire city: the Paris Mosque.
Paris off the beaten path: Grande Mosquée de Paris
Established in 1926, the Grande Mosquée de Paris is a moving tribute to the Muslim tirailleurs from France’s colonial empire, honoring their sacrifices in World War I. It is notably one of the first mosques in France, marking an important chapter in the nation’s history and memorializing the bravery of these soldiers.
The mosque’s design is an architectural marvel, showcasing the stunning Moorish style. Dominated by a 26-meter high minaret that pierces the Parisian skyline, its interior courtyard is a peaceful oasis, featuring a lush garden and intricate tile work that captures the spirit of traditional Islamic art and architecture.
Selected by the Société des Habous des Lieux Saints de l’Islam, the talented architects behind the design were Robert Fournez and Maurice Mantout. However, it was Moroccan, Algerian, and Tunisian craftsmen who executed the exquisite marble coverings, polychrome faience, stucco work, porphyry fountains, and cedar doors.
Beyond its religious significance, the Grande Mosquée de Paris is a bustling cultural center for the Muslim community in France. It is home to a library, a restaurant serving exquisite Maghrebi cuisine, and a hammam, all fostering a rich blend of social, cultural, and gastronomic experiences rooted in North African heritage.
Where to Stay in Paris’ 12th Arrondissement: citizenM Hotel – Gare de Lyon
As I hinted at the start of this article about the wonders of Paris’ 12th Arrondissement, my Parisian adventure was delightfully hosted by the citizenM Hotel – Gare de Lyon, nestled in the heart of the bustling 12eme Arrondissement, which I’ve explored in depth in this piece.
This boutique hotel boasts an artsy vibe, vibrant colors, sleek design, and high-tech features, much like its siblings (check out my experience at citizenM in London Shoreditch!). It’s a gadget lover’s paradise – everything in the room is controlled by an iPad. I had a blast playing with the “mood lights,” changing the sounds and colors in the room and even in the shower to match my whimsy.
From our room on the 15th floor, the view of the Seine was nothing short of spectacular. The hotel is also a haven for urban art aficionados, featuring works by French street artist Mast Cora and Parisian artist Romain Froquet.
And let’s not forget the mesmerizing installation by Dutch designers Michiel Martens and Jetske Visser gracing the entrance! Those ‘drops’ swell and deflate, like soap bubbles dancing in the sky – or rather: dancing against the backdrop of yet another colorful mural by Mast Cora.
(check out all the amazing art at Paris’ citizenM Hotel – Gare de Lyon!)
Last but certainly not least, a shoutout to the canteenM. After braving 8-hour walking tours in the chilly Parisian air, their cauliflower soup was a warm hug in a bowl. While the vegetarian options weren’t vast, the ones available were downright delicious and the epitome of comfort food.
My stay at the citizenM Hotel – Gare de Lyon perfectly encapsulated the essence of Paris’ 12th Arrondissement, combining modern comfort with artistic flair.
Whether you’re browsing through the stalls at the flea market, exploring the mesmerizing street art, walking along the beautiful Promenade Plantée, or simply soaking in the unique ambiance, the 12th Arrondissement is a testament to the diverse and dynamic spirit of Paris. This journey through one of Paris’ less-trodden districts is a reminder that the city’s heart beats not just in its famous landmarks, but also in its quieter, yet equally enchanting corners.
My Map of Not-Touristy Spots in Paris
