Born 14 years ago from the visionary insights of Giuliana Conte and Tono Cruz, Fate Festival has been carried out with enthusiasm from everyone living in San Potito Sannitico, a remote mountain village at the foot of the Matese Regional Park.
I’m celebrating with a post I’ve meant to write for such a looong time, but it took me months of terrible research and supreme sacrifice to write it down because, when in Naples, you can’t simply say “pizza”: you have to try ‘em all. The history of pizza begins a long long time ago, but “modern pizza” developed in Naples in the 18th century when tomato was put on top of the Roman “focaccia” (flat bread).
I walk through the curtain that separates, but –at the same time- links, the genuine neighbourhood of San Lorenzo from Palazzo Donnaregina, the 19th-century building that is home to the contemporary art museum of Naples. It’s a garish curtain, which without a big preamble leads into a visionary space designed by Daniel Buren. The French artist has, in fact, transformed the rigid architectural lines of this elegant palace into a wonderland of colourful panels, mirrors and disorientating perspectives that create infinite reflections, deconstructing and inverting the usual look of the entrance to the museum.
I duck out from all the shouting and enter the first wing on the right, where I find the Collezione Farnese, originally located in the Palazzo Farnese in Rome, this collection of ancient sculptures put together first by Pope Paolo III and later by his descendants.